Here’s your inside look at the latest from the runways of NYFW
by Sam Kidd
Costello Tagliapietra’s Spring/Summer 2013 show flaunted lots of strategically draped knits in saturated colors. The jersey dresses were very fluid, cascading off the model’s bodies and rippling down the runway. Draping was abundant, as well as ruching and pleating, enhancing and flattering the womanly form. The duo employed a strikingly saturated palette, juxtaposing blue with muted oranges and sandy peaches. The slinky dressed were often wrapped with a kimono belt or tied with a bow, nipping the waist and further exuding femininity. Costello Tagliapietra’s Spring show stayed with their tried and true specialty of easy, flattering frocks in a range of earth tones and abstract prints.
Ruffian borrowed from the boys for their Spring/Summer 2013, sending fresh-faced models down the catwalk sporting Converse, crepe and brocade. The girls exuded nonchalant elegance with their silk overalls and brocade dresses, all in pastel shades. The Ruffian boys wanted to portray a baroque mixed with minimalism vibe, pulling inspiration from Williamsburg and translating those photos into a toile print. Unexpected pleated panels updated swing dresses while peek-a-boo lacing lined silk shorts. An iridescent metallic brocade suit was the most striking piece, reflecting and twinkling beneath the stage lights. Ruffian’s Victorian punk collection was elegant yet laid-back, dreamed up for the stylish tomboy.
Jaws dropped upon entering the room for Rafael Cennamo’s Spring/Summer 2013 presentation, as the spectators took in the dazzling scene. Detailed, embroidered gowns and dresses adorned the models, all instilled with subtle Japanese references. Cennamo incorporated satins, silks, furs, and layers of tulle into his intricate gowns, which skimmed the body and flared out in breathtaking, dramatic fashion. The draping was immaculate with edgy angles evoking origami and aiding to theatrical silhouettes. Each look had hundreds of hours of hand work, be it beading, embroidery or layered strips of chiffon. The edgy kohl lined eyes and slicked back hair intensified and further contributed to the expressive Japanese theme. Rafael Cennamo’s latest collection is sure to be a red carpet hit among celebrities, with his harmonized mixture of femininity and striking drama.
Christian Siriano dreamt up airy, soft, pastel colored concoctions for his Spring/Summer 2013 show. It was much more toned down than some of his previous over the top collections, but every look was brilliantly styled and wearable. Demure, delicate and girly chiffon gowns appeared weightless as they flowed down the catwalk. Soft colors and peplums were featured without, sprinkled with seductive front slits, faux pearls, and ostrich feathers. The collection included his Christian Siriano for Payless Gold shoes, also influenced by the movement of ballet. Bows adorned the back of Mary Jane stilettos, and models donned metallic oxfords as well as bejeweled structured shoes. The highlight of the show was the troop of three models that closed, each wearing sweet tulle confections that generated early applause from the audience.